First few days

As I write this post, David Attinborough is interrupted every few seconds on the TV by a Lugandan translation. Let me tell you, it is an experience!

After a 12 hour lay over in Addis Ababa (one that was supposed to take no more than 3 hours) and a few Ethiopian beers, I finally arrived in Entebbe, Uganda. I stayed in a guest house for the first night so I could spend much of the next day assembling my bike in peace. Since then, a wonderful family has welcomed me into their home. A paradise filled with dozens of bird species most of which I have absolutely no clue as to what they are (YES! new material!), fruit trees including the infamous jack-fruit and a couple of intreguing kids. One of the boys took the liberty of showing me around the little neighbourhood composed of a couple of dirt roads, a bunch of simple houses and more birds! Most people in this neighbourhood seem to work at UVRI -the Uganda Virus Research Institute- and send their kids to the same school -Skylands Interantional School, which you can see from this neighbourhood across the valley. There is quite a view as we gained some elvation from the town center (although I'm corrected constantly that Entebbe isn't much of a town). I have also witnessed a big colourful outdoor market and locals enjoying their saturday on the beach of Lake Victoria. The culture here seems very laid back and friendly. Everyone I have spoken to or said 'hi' to on the street has been happy and kind. Saturday nights seem lively as I heard some fun dance music blaring in the night. I, on the otherhand, fell asleep at 5:30pm....jet lag and having slept very few hours over the previous 3 days/nights forced me to fall into a sleep so deep I didn't hear my host knocking on my door to greet me (as we had not met yet). Of course, I woke up in the middle of the night, but fell asleep again later on only to wake to what seemed like a million bird songs! There is one bird here with a crimson chest and yellow rump that has a seriously impressive song repretoire, perhaps not of quantity, but the variation certainly astonishes me.

Just some trees in my hosts' garden.

An avocado tree!!!!!

My hosts' house.

Little 3 year old Conly looking pensive.

I went on a day trip yesterday to visit Zika forest, a small forest mostly composed of marsh that not even the locals that live IN IT know that it is called Zika forest. Getting there was simple enough, follow the crazy busy road that leads to Kampala until you reach a village called Kisubi. Enter the unmarked, but only forest in the area. I asked people around me just to make sure I was going the right way, no one had heard of Zika forest. Coming back to my host family, I described the area and what the forest looked like and they reassured me I wasn't standing on the edge of a palm plantation, which was my impression at one point when a little girl told me I was not looking at birds in a forest, but in palm trees. Regardless, I'm confident I made it to Zika forest and what a spectacle it was! Though small, I saw so many colourful song birds including what looked like starlings, king fishers, perhaps cuckoos and many many complete unknowns! I can't wait to get that bird book...Cycling to Zika forest was a treat in itself, once off the busy main/paved road, I pedelled on a dirt road through a village filled with children. I've finally been MZUNGU'd! How many times have I read in how many blogs of other cycle tourers being called after by children and adults alike MZUNGU! MZUNGU! meaning whitie essentially. It's cute coming from kids, they're just curious and who knows how many mzungus they've seen in their life, but I must say it is slightly annoying coming from the adults. Nevermind though, the children around here seem to brighten up everything and, in general, Ugandans have helped me every step of the way since I arrived, whether it be to get data for my ipad or giving me a place to stay and food. Such kind and generous people. While in the village, some kids would chase me in play saying "Faster! Faster!", others crossed the road just to take a better look at me and ALL of them smiled their biggest smiles and waved saying "hello" or "bye" regardless of whether I was coming or going :) 

Zika forest and surrounding residences.

The vast marsh land in the distance behind Zika forest.

Some man-made structure under a jack-fruit tree.

The Teletubby day care/school :)

My host took the liberty of driving me around Entebbe showing me the views from just around the corner, to the middle of town and, of course, the airport where the famous high jacking of an Air France flight occured. Although I was vaguely familiar with Uganda's history, I never saw "The Last King of Scottland", so it was a must according to my host. Let me tell you, watching that movie while in Uganda was slightly intimidating even though it is very obvious the country is no longer run by Amin or anyone like him. From the car, we saw monkeys! Vervet monkeys. Apparently they are unwanted around here, surprise surprise. They tend to eat entire crops-worth of food. The family I saw did not seem to be bothered by people at all and crossed the road with ease. It looked like they were eating termites! Yay insectivorous primates! The primatologist in me always finds a way...

Mama carrying her babe across the road.

A juvenile waiting on top of a termite mound for mom to cross the road.

Mom and babe made it safely.

Look at those little blue testicles :)

The airport (old or new, cannot tell).

The large UN base next to the airport.

Since I've been living with my host family I have been going down to the shores of Lake Victoria to enjoy an evening beer and the sunset! (as an aside, Ugandans are geniouses, they figured out naming a beer "Club" and plastering the word in giant letters all over most buildings was a smart idea. However, I cannot figure out why they ask IF I want my beer cold...) Of course more bird watching occurs as I appear to take my binos with me absolutely everywhere. I have seen many herons, maribou storks (one of my favourites), what seem like plovers, sand pipers, gulls, king fishers and, again, a bunch of unknowns! Amongst the unknowns is a large black bird with a long stork-like beak with a large space inbetween each mandible, which seems like it would be good for shelled organisms. I'm not sure though. I've only seen one individual so far. There are many fisherman on Lake Victoria. From what I can tell most of them work from canoes rather than motor boats. The paddles they use are beautiful with the paddle shaped like a large heart-shaped leaf. I must say it is a privaledge to finally see Lake Victoria after learning about the fantastic ecological research conducted here, mainly on the infamous cichlids. It is always exciting to see in the flesh what you've been reading about for years. The cichlid research in particular holds a special place in my heart as it lead to Liam's paradox -a foundation for the theory of fallback foods, my masters thesis topic.

Wish I thought of it first.

Two soaring egrets.

What I think are perhaps plovers? They look like giant mayflies because of the way their disproportionately long legs dangle when they're flying.

The mysterious shelled organism feeding bird.

One of many fisherman paddling away.

I am learning some Luganda, a Bantu language found in the central southern part of Uganda. It is absolutely beautiful. All languages in Uganda's southern half are of the Bantu tribal roots, whereas Nilotic people rein in the northern half of Uganda where I will be in a couple of weeks. I am told the north and the south are very different from each other in terms of economy and culture. It will interesting to see the contrast.

The music here is unreal. I can't wait to buy some (somehow...buy a CD and a usb stick?) and share it with you. For now, refer to this link: http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=ojrV4BrU74Q&autoplay=1&desktop_uri=%2525252Fwatch%2525253Fv%2525253DojrV4BrU74Q%25252526autoplay%2525253D1

This particular bird (I believe the same individual) has haunted me each evening as I sip on my beer with a straw (as is custome here). In my expert opinion, the only plausible explanation for this creature is: it is an aquatic chicken.

Proof that I am actually here and so is my bike. This is me sitting down to eat after a bunch of cycling to Zika and back to Entebbe. Sitting next to me is an armed guard graciously guarding my bicycle as I popped inside the shop. He didn't want his photo taken....I didn't mean to.