Sipi to Amudat, the land of thorns

I made the crazy decision to enter into a totally different part of Uganda: Karamoja region, the land of thorns. I met a Dutch couple while in Sipi who spoke highly of a place called Amudat where they work with the Pokot tribe. The Pokots are mainly found in Kenya, but few Ugandans know that some have ventured over the border and have been here for quite some time. The Pokots are traditional people, wearing many colourful beads and beautiful clothing. Cattle is very important to them, so important fathers are willing to circumcise their daughters to receive a higher dowry (more cattle) than uncircumcised daughters. Female Genital Mutilation (FGM) is common among the Pokot even though it is illegal in Uganda and has been since the early 2000's. In comes ZOA, a Dutch NGO (apparently famous, although I had honestly never heard of it until meeting this Dutch couple) who promotes education, gives shelter to girls that run away from their fathers for fear of FGM, hire engineers to provide sustainable water sources and even promotes conservation! This organization seemingly does it all. **EDIT: here is their website http://www.zoa-international.com/content/uganda** I'm very thankful to stay at the ZOA headquarters in Amudat where I have been given permission to pitch my tent at no cost. Annemieke, the female half of the Dutch couple, and a local ZOA employee have taken me to a local school where many of the girls have fled to from their distant villages to seek education and avoid FGM. The girls were so happy to see us visitors. We each introduced ourselves, where we're from and what we're doing here. Of course it took a bit of convincing from the local employee, who was translating into Kiswahili for the kids, for the kids to believe that I had traveled "all the way" from Entebbe. Initially people around here think I traveled by motorbike, which impresses them enough, but then when it is further explained that no motor was involved it's difficult for them to comprehend. I, however, am all the while thinking in the back of my mind that it's really no big deal seeing as how I've met someone recently who's traveled by bicycle from Ethiopia and have spoken to many who have traveled the whole continent by bicycle! That, would certainly blow these kids' minds. I realized when I was introducing myself that I should have a map of the world on me (or there should be one in each classroom) to *show* the kids *where* tiny little Canada is in the world, since they have not a tiny clue. 

Amudat town with Turkana people from Kenya dressed in colourful traditional clothing with beads and dreaded mohawks.

**PHOtO ADDED** local ZOA employee sporting Pokot beads and holding the Pokot man's traditional stick,also covered in beads.

**PHOTO ADDED** Pokot man's seat he carries with him everywhere.

So that's where I am, how about HOW I got here? Well, it was a two day trek on dirt road and dirt road only (other than the 12km downhill from Sipi -what a hoot!). The first day started out a bit dreary as I had no idea what to expect, an obscene amount of water on me and enough food for a few days just in case. No one I knew/contacted had ever cycled here before and those who have driven it don't necessarily take note as to how often they see a fruit stand, a bore hole or a school -my food, water and shelter. I had been cycling along at a very slow pace compared to what I was used to on the tarmac and didn't feel like I was really pushing myself, which can get me down in any situation. Having not cycled for 3 days beforehand, my appetite was not active, but I had eaten here and there throughout the morning. I saw a fruit stand around lunchtime and thought I'd stop for a banana or 3 (they were tiny) because I didn't know the next chance I'll get to have one. After a couple of bites my eyes start going dark, I loose motor function in my hand holding the banana, it drops and then so do I. I had been straddling my bike because there was no where to lean it against, so that comes down with me. I'm conscious as soon as I hit the ground, but weak. Luckily there was a vehicle full of army dudes, some of whom picked me and my bicycle up. The women manning the fruit stand were all telling me to rest. I sit down on the ground next to my bike in the shade. "What the hell just happened?", I asked myself. I have never in my life fainted and I could not pin point what would cause me to fain in that moment. I go through the possibilities: am I dehydrated? No, I've been drinking plenty of water as I have excess of it and even refilled my water bottle at a village earlier just in case. Am I hungry? Well, like I said my appetite had been smaller than usual, but I had made sure to eat in the morning as I usually do. Am I sick? I had not been feeling 100% the previous day, but nothing serious, just a little tired and queazy with no repercussions and I felt fine the next day. Still, two days later, I have no idea why I fainted. I felt 100% amazing right after the 1 hour nap I had on the ground in front of the fruit stand and have ever since. Was I scared? When I was going blind, yes, otherwise not really. It came as fast as it went it seems. I got a ride on the back of a banana/rice/women and children transport truck with my bike for the next 10km to make up for lost time and rode for another 15km that day. Felt like I had more energy than that morning. In fact that afternoon ride was one of the best yet! I rode through the Pian Upe Game Reserve, full of vast wilderness and beautiful scenery, including a view of Mt. Kadam. I stayed at the Ugandan Wildlife Authority that night (for which I payed too much for camping, but they had flushing toilets and security) with a resident crowned crane. This crane is very habituated and probably well fed by humans. But, as many of you know, there's no way he's going to get food from my hand. He followed me most of the evening, pecking at my tent poles, displaying of sorts, and trying to steal my dinner. It was a bit of a love-hate relationship, but ended very nicely as he respected me and my food, let the food alone and came a lay next to me eventually falling asleep. Cute, cute, cute. One of my more diverse days of riding so far.

Part of the lovely downhill from Sipi.

My friend the crowned crane.

Crane, tent, bicycle.

Mt. Kadam view from the UWA campsite.

My friend displaying for me.

Good morning Mt. Kadam!

The next morning I watched the sunrise over great Mt. Kadam while I took down my tent in a bit of drizzle. It will rain on and off for the remainder of the day, which was refreshing and I much prefer rain over the hot hot sun. I traveled through what locals here don't even call "villages", but small collections of huts in the wilderness. I saw for the first time people dressed in traditional tribal clothing and jewelry yelling non-English words my way. Don't have a clue what they were saying, but I could tell they have never ever seen a mzungu female riding on a loaded bicycle through their non-village. Mt. Kadam remained in view for almost the entire 60km trip, it just kept going and going and going. It's a very spectacular mountain with jagged edges and "foothills" if you will. The greenery on the jagged foothills make them look prehistoric. 

The non-villages.

Random sunflower field...

Another side of Mt. Kadam.

So far, the journey on the dirt road had been flat flat flat, which I was thankful for. I don't mind hills on tarmac, but I couldn't imagine hills on a dirt road with this weight. Well, my imagination was not needed, I got to experience a nice dirt hill first hand. Complete with loose rocks and all. I walked some of it. The grade was high and the hill seemed endless. It took me about an hour to reach the top with a mix of pedalling and pushing. I was relieved to be at the top, but I was exhausted already and I still had 25km to Amudat. These next 25km will be tougher still with ups and downs and very little in the way of washboard-free terrain. For the next 3 hours my body, bike and bags were rattled to no end. I imagine if I was not alone, knew where I was going or wasn't so tired and discouraged from pushing my bike up that hill I would have seen that stretch in a different light. Unfortunately, this was not the case. The positive side, however, was that there were hardly any people and the very occasional vehicle. This was the least populated route I've taken yet, so it was quite peaceful with only the sounds of the birds, cows, thunder and little rain drops. Thank goodness, because I don't think I could have handled a grown man yelling "mzungu" at me in that moment very well. Having said all of this, all I had to do was think of my two tree planting friends riding a tandem bicycle on a mountain bike trail complete with roots, rocks and hills and a smile or even a giggle came about as I thought to myself "well, if they can do *that* on a tandem, surely my Surly Troll and I can handle this washboard bullshit". And if I really wanted to laugh out loud, all I had to do was think of my other tree planting friend giving up on his bicycle so much so that he got off of it, grabbed the back wheel and dragged the bike upside down a few hundred meters down the street. People and bikes have seen more difficult times Krisz, consider yourself lucky.

Dirt road hill. 

Reward given by the hill: view.

I reached Amudat in pretty good time. It was just after 3pm. Although exhausted, I was so happy to see the smiling faces of Annemieke and Adam, the Dutch couple, to greet me in ZOA. I was even more pleased to arrived at the ZOA gates able to state my name and have a question-free welcoming as the guards had been informed of my arrival. This was a very positive feeling after such a trying afternoon. Since then I've been shown around ZOA headquarters, the town of Amudat, I told you about the school, we've had dinner together, visited a church and been woken up at 5am to a blaring horn to wake the whole of WORLD it seems because, for God's sake, it's time to pray! And pray they did in amplified song form for the next two hours...the same song over and over again. Ah well, all part of the African experience, right? 

More of Amudat.

**PHOtO ADDED** I forgot to tell you that I can also see Mt. Kenya from here in Amudat!

I am now contemplating my exit strategy as my options are dirt road and more dirt road. Apparently, I might have an option to take a ride in a vehicle back to Mbale tomorrow = pavement! So, I think I'll head there tomorrow and then make my was to Soroti where Annemieke has already arranged for a bed for me in an orphanage. Perfect. I'm eager, though, to get to the southwest and visit some national parks where wildlife is abundant and I have some contacts. I'll get there. I have a feeling Rwanda is going to have to wait until next trip, which I'm fine with as I'm loving Uganda and don't want to rush it. Traveling by bike: my schedule, my itinerary, my agenda. Total freedom, ultimate liberty. Never traveling another way again.